In London, emerging labels Di Petsa, Karoline Vitto and Sinead O’Dwyer showcased lineups of size-diverse models. That said, a handful of - mostly smaller - brands pushed ahead this season. “No one needed any data to understand that representing a wide array of body shapes and sizes in runway shows or in fashion imagery is not a priority for the industry.” “Slipping back from… what? A glorious time when the average American woman (size 16) was as present on the runways as she is in everyday life? A time when fashion ads cast as many ‘plus-size’ and ‘mid-size’ women as ‘straight-size’ women?” fashion journalist Amy Odell wrote in her Substack newsletter of this past season’s runways. “They wanted to utilize her image and her social following to command a certain space in the market, but they didn’t want to be reflective on their runways.”įor others, even the term “backslide” was too generous.
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“Watching somebody like Ashley Graham attend the front row for so many of these major houses in full looks (provided by the designer), it was frustrating,” White continued. “It was frustrating to see some of these designers not using curved bodies where they had in the past.” Fendi and Valentino did not respond when contacted by CNN, while Erdem declined to comment. “It was a definitive backslide,” said IMG model agent Mina White, who represents plus-size and curve supermodels including Elsesser and Ashley Graham. Models on the runway at Erdem's Fall-Winter 2023 show during London Fashion Week. For context, industry market firm Plunkett Research estimated in 2015 that 68% of American women wear a size US 14 or above. Similarly, a size inclusivity report conducted by Vogue Business found that 95.6% of all looks presented for Fall-Winter 2023 were in a size US 0-4. But this season, there was a visible lack of curve bodies on their runways - or many others.įendi and Valentino did not respond when contacted by CNN, while Erdem declined to comment.Īccording to fashion search engine Tagwalk, the number of mid and plus-size models dropped by 24% in comparison to Spring-Summer 2023. And in January 2022, Valentino made headlines after its haute couture show featured a broad spectrum of body types. (Traditionally, a sample size falls between a US 0-4.) British label Erdem entered the plus-size market in 2021, extending its offering to a UK size 22 (or US size 18). In 2020, Jill Kortleve and Paloma Elsesser became the first models outside of a sample size to walk for the Italian fashion house Fendi. And its potential impact is being assessed more broadly: With the rise of these weight loss panaceas, the pursuit of size zero is now just a prescription away. This rollback has been widely criticized in the style media as such. Even Elon Musk tweeted last year about being on Wegovy.įor many fashion commentators and diversity advocates, the Fall-Winter 2023 runways were in sharp contrast to the (albeit limited) progress and heady promise of recent seasons. (Ozempic is intended for use primarily to treat Type 2 diabetes.) Comedian Chelsea Handler claimed her “anti-aging doctor just hands (Ozempic) out to anybody” while appearing on a podcast in January. In recent months, injectables such as Wegovy and Ozempic - which share the same active ingredient, semaglutide - have been widely reported as Hollywood’s worst-kept weight loss secret. Dior's landmark Mumbai show signals India's growing luxury status
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